Jerusalem over Thanksgiving

We crossed the border from Jordan to Israel yesterday starting at 7:15 am from our apartments in Amman reaching our final destination, the New Palm Hostel in Jerusalem just after 1pm. The time was mostly consumed by security checkpoints. The actual bus ride across the bridge over the Jordan river from Jordan to Israel soil took no more than 20 mins if that.

It seems as if we've lived so much more than a day and a half worth of time since we've arrived in Jerusalem. We began yesterday (Thanksgiving Day) by exploring the old city and walked through every quarter of it (Armenian, Christian, Muslim and Jewish). There were vendors and shops stuffed in the city walls although not quite as overwhelming as the markets in Bangkok (where we attended the Feast this year). On our way out in the evening (eve of the Muslim holiday of Eid Al-Adha) we ran into a few parades or I should say they ran into us. First there was a large group of men and boys singing in

Arabic walking together through the already crowded shops lining the city walls. Then as we were exiting through Damascus gate which was utterly packed to the brim we saw what seemed to be the beginning of a fight between two men. There was really no way to turn to get away because of the masses, but fortunately the fight did not erupt right then and there. We were shoved into the stream of people exiting the gate and thought it couldn't get anymore crowded. Alas, that was not so. Ahead and coming toward us we saw a man who was trying to clear a path and a second later we saw the reason. A marching band, yes, a marching band was coming through the already bursting at the seems gateway. Jamie made the comment "when you think it can't get any worse..." We were assuming all the parades and crowds were due to the Muslim holiday.

We slept fairly comfortably in our hostel dorm room at the New Palm Hostel just outside the old city Damascus gate. The beds are quite soft, there's hot water with wonderful pressure for showers, free internet, breakfast and nice heating in the rooms. Although those things may be somewhat basic I keep thinking we're in the lap of luxury here. The breakfast this morning consisted of pita with labneh spread or butter and jam/honey, cucumber tomato salad, boiled eggs, nescafe and tea. Perhaps I was quite hungry, but I thought it was all very delicious. After breakfast we set off with bus numbers in our heads (listed in the lonely planet tour guide book) as our first clue in how to get to the Holocaust Museum in the Jewish quarter of the c

ity. After walking around our entire block, finding another bus station and talking to a driver who directed us to find the green buses not the blue ones, finding another bus station with green buses (but not the right ones), asking numerous people along the way, hiking up a hill next to the old city wall and finally to a bus stop that seemed to be right according to people waiting there we hopped on a bus for 6 shekels each (approx $1.50) and headed to Mt. Herzl. The trip took no more than 15 mins and then we hiked the short distance up Yad Vashem (given a place and a name taken from the scripture Isaiah 56:4-5) to the Holocaust Museum, research center, children's memorial, etc. We were there for more than 3 hours and still didn't completely read, listen, look at all the available information and displays. It was incredible and so full of meaning at every turn. Every part of the building (including the architecture itself) was to teach something about the holocaust. It seemed their foremost purpose stated at the beginning

and that really did show through in much of what I experienced was that the Jewish people were real, they were individuals (each individual being a world unto himself). One thing that struck me with intensity was how clearly planned, organized and the carrying out the whole plan of exterminating the Jews was. It started maybe somewhat slowly with Hitler being elected as chancellor, but didn't seem to take long for the ideologies to take off, gain momentum and lead a completely selfish and racist way of conducting a nation and people to move against another group of people. The museum begins with a scroll type video of excerpts of films and photos taken of Jewish people before the second world war in their "normal lives" as German citizens and of other European nations as well. It was to show how their life was truly productive and part of the culture surrounding them. From there it went into the gradual process of government and decrees and then actions that lead to the holocaust. I can't even begin to cover how completely overwhelming it all is. We were actually pushed very quickly through the last 3 or 4 large exhibit halls due to the early closing time on Friday evenings before the Sabbath. We could have spent another 3 hours easily although in some ways I don't know how much more of that I could really bare.

When we left, we made our way back to the old city by bus again. On the way we were

accosted by a taxi driver telling us the buses weren't going anymore because of the soon coming Sabbath (more than 2 hours away) and offered to drive us where we wanted for "only" 80 shekels. However, that price compared to the bus price seemed worth not listening to him for a bit to check out the situation a little further. This lead to good results as we were on a bus headed back to the old city in less than 5 minutes after that. When we got back we entered the old city through a gate not far from Jaffa gate, but we don't know what its name was. Just inside we found a little falafel place. We got the most delicious falafel which included eggplant and hot peppers (a different variation from our falafel experiences as of yet). We walked on through the old city eating our falafel past the wailing wall and out through another gate just next to the western wall of the temple mount to the east side of Jerusalem. We hiked up the Mount of Olives and watched the sunset leading into the Sabbath over the old city.

It was amazingly beautiful. Eduardo read out passages from Isaiah and Zechariah about Jerusalem and Christ returning and the Mt. of Olives cleaving in two. It's quite simply easier to understand when we saw the whole landscape before our eyes; we read about the war that would surround Jerusalem but tonight seemed fairly quiet and peaceful. After waiting a while to see the old city under a night view we made the trek back down the mountain and around the outside of the city wall toward our hostel. When we got back around to the Damascus gate it was amazing to see the difference from last night. It was so quiet and quite deserted comparatively. All the vendor shops and parades were gone and we stood and watched many of the Jewish people pour out of the gate in their traditional Sabbath wear after what seemed to have been an evening prayer time. What a stark contrast from the marching band parade and crowds of people we'd seen only 24 hours earlier. We've now settled in for the evening and are enjoying the beginning of a much needed Sabbath. Tomorrow we hope to enjoy resting a bit, listening to a pre-downloaded sermon/Bible study on someone's computer and visting the Garden Tomb and perhaps one or two other sites within a short walking distance. Happy Sabbath!

~Audry~